At the entrance to Shai Hills, the baboons are often waiting. They sit by the gate, watching the visitors, and they know that cars sometimes carry food.
Shai Hills Resource Reserve lies on the Accra plains, north-east of the city, off the road to Akosombo. It covers about 50 square kilometres of grassland, dry forest and rocky hills that rise sharply from the flat plain. It is managed by the Wildlife Division of the Forestry Commission.
Wildlife
The reserve is best known for its olive baboons, which live in large troops. Visitors can also see kob and other antelopes, monkeys and a wide range of birds, including hornbills and raptors. Bats roost in the caves.
Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times for wildlife, when animals are active and the heat is lower.
The Shai people
The hills were once the home of the Shai, a Dangme-speaking people, who lived on the hilltops and in caves, which gave natural protection. In the late nineteenth century, the colonial authorities forced them to leave the hills and settle on the plains. The Shai still regard the hills as their ancestral home, and some sites within the reserve are sacred.
Caves and climbs
Guided walks lead to caves, including Sayu cave, and to hilltops with views across the plain. Some routes involve scrambling over rocks, so wear good shoes and bring water. Guides explain the history of the Shai settlements and point out traces of old homesteads.
Activities
Visitors can hike with a guide or drive through parts of the reserve. Facilities and activities change from time to time, so check current options with the reserve before going, and carry cash for fees.
Baboon etiquette
Do not feed the baboons. Feeding makes them aggressive and dependent on humans. Keep food inside the car and windows closed near large groups.
Getting there
The reserve is about an hour’s drive from central Accra, depending on traffic, via the Tema to Akosombo road. It combines well with a trip to Akosombo or the Volta.
Why go
For Accra residents, Shai Hills is the nearest place to see wild animals in their habitat, and a reminder that the land around the capital was once open savannah.
The Shai left their hilltop homes more than a century ago. The baboons have taken over the view.
.jpg){kind=link}