As the sun goes down in Accra, smoke starts rising from small grills along the roadsides. Behind them, sellers turn sticks of meat over glowing charcoal, dusting them with a reddish spice powder. Customers wait in cars, on motorbikes and on foot. This is chichinga, or khebab, one of the city’s favourite evening snacks, and a reminder of how northern and Hausa food traditions have shaped eating in Ghana’s capital.
What chichinga is and its northern roots
Chichinga is meat cut into small pieces, threaded onto sticks, seasoned and grilled over charcoal. Beef is the most common, but goat, chicken, gizzard and liver are also sold. It is eaten hot, straight from the grill. The key to chichinga is the spice mix, often called yaji or simply khebab powder. It usually contains ground roasted peanuts, chilli, ginger and other spices. Each seller has a preferred blend.
The tradition of grilled spiced meat came to southern Ghana through northern and Hausa communities, many of whom settled in Accra’s zongos. Sellers from these communities still run many of the grills.
Suya, where to find it and prices
Chichinga is closely related to suya, the famous grilled meat of northern Nigeria. Both use similar spice mixes and methods, and many people use the names loosely. Chichinga sellers are found near drinking spots, lorry stations, busy junctions and nightlife areas such as Osu. Some sellers have become well known in their neighbourhoods. Chichinga is a popular companion to beer and soft drinks. Many drinking spots allow sellers to set up outside, and customers buy sticks to eat with their drinks.
Sticks are sold individually, making it easy to buy a small amount. Prices vary by size and type of meat.
Hygiene, parties and home
As with all street food, customers often choose sellers they trust. Meat should be cooked thoroughly, and many buyers prefer grills where they can watch the cooking. Chichinga is also served at parties and events, sometimes grilled on site by hired sellers. Some people make chichinga at home, buying spice powder in the market and grilling meat on small charcoal pots.
Chichinga needs only meat, sticks, spice and charcoal. On an Accra evening, the smoke from one grill is usually enough to draw a small queue.
