At lorry stations on the road to the Volta Region, traders hold up trays of small, pale cakes wrapped in leaves or plastic. Alongside them are fried fish, shrimps and pepper. The cakes are abolo, a steamed food made from fermented corn dough, and they are one of the best-known snacks of the Ewe people. Slightly sweet, soft and spongy, abolo is a favourite travelling food and a popular choice for a light meal in Accra neighbourhoods with Ewe communities.
What abolo is and how it is eaten
Abolo is made from fermented corn dough, sometimes mixed with rice flour or cassava. Sugar may be added for sweetness. The dough is shaped and steamed until firm. The dish is closely linked to the Ewe of the Volta Region, especially coastal towns such as Keta, Anloga and Aflao. Abolo was traditionally wrapped in leaves before steaming. Today, many sellers use plastic or foil.
Abolo is usually eaten with fried fish, grilled tilapia, koobi (salted tilapia), shrimps and fresh pepper sauce. Some people add onion and tomato relish.
On the road, in Accra and at home
Travellers on the Accra-Aflao road often buy abolo and fish from hawkers at stops along the way. Abolo sellers can be found in parts of Accra with large Ewe populations, including markets and lorry stations. Good abolo is soft and slightly springy, with a mild sweetness that balances spicy pepper. The fermentation of the corn dough gives abolo a gentle sour note, similar to kenkey but milder.
Some families prepare abolo at home, though it takes time to ferment and steam. Abolo is served at gatherings and festivals in Ewe communities.
Other Ewe dishes, prices and mealtimes
The Ewe also eat akple, yakeyake and fetri detsi, many of them based on corn and cassava. Abolo is affordable, making it a popular snack for students and workers. Abolo has gained fans beyond Ewe communities and is now known across southern Ghana. Some people eat abolo for breakfast with a cup of tea, while others prefer it as a light lunch with fish.
Abolo is often sold at the same roadside stall as fried fish and pepper. Most buyers would not dream of eating one without the other two.