The kenkey seller unwraps a ball of fermented corn dough from its dry husk, slices it, and adds fried fish and a heap of ground pepper with onion and tomato. For many Accra residents, there is no better meal. Kenkey, the food of the Ga people, has fed the city’s fishermen, traders and workers for generations.
What kenkey is
Kenkey is made from maize that is soaked, ground and left to ferment into a sour dough. Part of the dough is cooked, mixed with the rest, shaped into balls and wrapped before being boiled for hours. Ga kenkey, called komi, is wrapped in dried corn husks and is slightly salty. Fante kenkey is wrapped in plantain or banana leaves and has a softer, sweeter taste. Accra residents often have strong preferences.
Fermentation, fish and pepper
Fermentation gives kenkey its sour flavour and helps preserve it. Kenkey can last several days without refrigeration, which made it ideal for fishermen and travellers.
Kenkey is often served with fried fish such as herring, tilapia or mackerel, known locally by various names. The crispy fish complements the dense, sour kenkey. The classic accompaniment is a fresh pepper sauce made from ground chilli, onion and tomato, sometimes called shito-pepper or simply pepper. Shito, the black pepper sauce, is also popular.
Mealtimes, the Ga and where to buy it
Kenkey can be eaten at any time. Some eat it for breakfast; others prefer it in the evening. Kenkey is closely tied to Ga identity and to the fishing communities of the Accra coast, from Jamestown to Teshie and Nungua. Kenkey is sold by women at roadside stalls, in markets and at small eateries across Accra. Certain kenkey houses have famous followings.
Kenkey remains one of the most affordable filling meals in Accra, making it important for low-income workers.
Other uses and making it at home
Kenkey dough is also used to make koko, a fermented porridge, and other foods. Making kenkey takes days, from soaking the maize to fermenting the dough and boiling the wrapped balls. Most city families buy it from sellers who specialise in it, often women who have made kenkey for decades. Accra has many restaurants with international menus. On any given day, a ball of kenkey with fried fish and pepper still feeds more of the city than any of them.
