In December, Accra’s population seems to grow overnight. Flights from London, New York and Toronto are full, hotels are booked and every weekend has several major concerts. Welcome to Detty December.
The phrase “Detty December”, from Nigerian Pidgin for “dirty December”, refers to the season of parties and celebration that takes over West African cities, especially Lagos and Accra, in the weeks around Christmas and New Year. In Ghana, it grew with the return of the diaspora, the 2019 Year of Return and the rise of festivals and concerts.
Who comes
Ghanaians living abroad return to see family, attend weddings and funerals, and build or visit homes. African Americans, Caribbean visitors and others from the diaspora also come, many for their first visit to Africa. Nigerians and other West Africans travel to Accra for concerts.
What happens
The season includes major concerts by Ghanaian and Nigerian stars, festivals such as AfroFuture, beach parties, club nights, fashion shows and art events. It is also peak season for weddings, as families gather while relatives are in town. Churches hold end-of-year services and watch-night services on 31 December.
The economy
Hotels, short-term rentals, restaurants, bars, event organisers, transport operators and vendors benefit from the surge in visitors. The Ghana Tourism Authority promotes the season as part of its tourism strategy, and the government has marketed December events to the diaspora.
The downside
Traffic becomes severe, especially around Osu, Labadi and the airport. Prices rise for accommodation, food, transport and even basic goods, and markets such as Makola are packed with Christmas shoppers. Some residents complain that the season is designed for visitors with foreign currency. Rolling out safety, sanitation and crowd management for large events is a challenge.
Tips for visitors
Book flights and accommodation months in advance. Plan travel around traffic, using ride-hailing apps and allowing extra time. Buy concert tickets from official sellers. Carry both cedis and mobile money. Remember that many businesses close or reduce hours on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
For residents
Many Accra residents enjoy the energy, but some prefer to stay home or travel to their hometowns for Christmas.
For a few weeks each year, Accra becomes one of the busiest party cities in the world. By mid-January, the visitors fly home and the city exhales.
