Walk into the Arts Centre in Accra and the traders will find you before you find them. “My friend, come and see, just looking is free.”
The Centre for National Culture, universally known as the Arts Centre, sits near the waterfront in central Accra, not far from the old Jamestown and the High Street. Its crafts market is a maze of stalls selling kente cloth, drums, wood carvings, masks, beads, leather goods, paintings, batik and souvenirs from across Ghana and West Africa.
What to buy
Kente. Strips and full cloths, as well as stoles, bags and smaller items. Handwoven kente is expensive; printed imitations are cheaper. Ask which is which.
Drums. Djembes and kpanlogo drums of different sizes. Check the skin and the tuning ropes.
Carvings and masks. Wooden figures, stools, masks and bowls. Many are made for the tourist market, so do not pay “antique” prices unless you know what you are buying.
Beads. Krobo glass beads, necklaces and bracelets.
Paintings. Local artists sell canvases of markets, village scenes and portraits.
How to bargain
Prices are almost always negotiable. Start by asking the price, respond with a lower offer and work toward a figure both sides accept. Be friendly and patient. If the price does not suit you, thank the trader and walk away; you may be called back with a better offer.
Buying several items from one trader can bring a discount.
Tips
Go in the morning, when it is cooler. Carry small notes and mobile money. Decide what you want before you go, or you may leave with far more than you planned. Traders can be persistent; a polite “not today” usually works.
Shipping and travel
Large items such as drums and stools can be heavy. Some traders offer packing, but check airline baggage rules. Wooden items may need to be declared at customs in some countries.
Support real artisans
Ask who made an item and where it comes from. Buying directly from the people who make crafts helps more money reach them.
Other options
For higher-priced art and crafts, galleries in Osu, Labone and Cantonments offer more curated selections with fixed prices.
The Arts Centre is loud, crowded and full of energy. Most visitors leave with something they love and a story about the bargaining that got it.
