The tilapia comes off the grill blackened and steaming, laid beside a smooth ball of banku and a mound of fiery pepper. Diners tear off a piece of banku with their fingers, dip it in the pepper and pull flakes of fish from the bone. In Accra, banku and tilapia is the meal of evenings out, office celebrations and late nights with friends.
Banku and grilled tilapia
Banku is made from fermented corn dough, often mixed with cassava dough, cooked in water and stirred vigorously until it forms a smooth, firm mass. It has a slightly sour taste. Banku is widely eaten by the Ewe and Ga, and across southern Ghana. It is closely related to other fermented corn foods such as kenkey.
Tilapia, a freshwater fish farmed in Lake Volta and elsewhere, is seasoned with spices, onion and pepper, then grilled over charcoal. The skin becomes crispy and the flesh stays tender.
Pepper, stew and where to eat it
The pepper sauce is made from fresh chilli, onion, tomato and sometimes ginger, ground together. It is very hot, and many diners cool their mouths with drinks. Banku is also eaten with okro soup or stew, a dish especially popular in Ewe and Ga homes. Banku and tilapia is sold at roadside grills, chop bars, drinking spots and restaurants. Some places in areas such as Osu, Labadi and the Spintex Road are known for their tilapia.
The dish is often shared among friends over drinks, especially on weekends. Many people associate it with relaxation and celebration. Ghana’s tilapia comes increasingly from fish farms, especially cage farming on Lake Volta, which has grown into a significant industry.
Cooking at home, price and freshness
Banku is cooked at home in large pots, with someone stirring constantly. Tilapia can be grilled, fried or baked. Prices vary with the size of the fish, from small portions to whole large tilapia for sharing. Choose sellers whose fish looks fresh and is grilled to order. The best spots are often busy, which means stock moves quickly. Ask for the pepper on the side if you are not used to strong heat.
Accra’s nightlife has many menus. Banku and tilapia, eaten with fingers and a very hot pepper, is still the one that tastes most like the city.
